It all
started out so innocently; an old copy of National Geographic, carelessly left
out for my young fingers to thumb through; the frenzied buzzing in the air
whenever my family headed out to the airport; the odd late night spent watching
documentaries on Guam. When I was 10 my parents bought a wall sized map of the
world. I whiled away hours in the basement looking at the outline of countries
who’s names I could never pronounce. Nobody ever thought much of it.
I guess,
like many people, I really started to experiment with travel in college. Gateway
road trips up to New York City gave way to that first glorious plane ride to
Paris (you always remember your first time… out of the country). I went into
school with a bachelor’s degree in aimless rambling and came out P.H.D. in
wanderlust. By the time university ended
I had a ravenous travel monkey on my back the size of King Kong and twice as
loud. For years I fed the beast, living on the Mediterranean, taking weekend
trips to Corsica or driving up to Amsterdam when the itch got unbearable. It was
a beautiful dream but it could never last.
At my lowest point I even allowed myself to be photographed in a beret.
When I
returned to New York I kept the monkey satiated with an endless stream of
Chinese take-out, aboriginal art installations and foreign tourists. I could
close my eyes on the streets in Curry Hill and, just for a moment, be
transported far away to a bustling, Indian bazaar deep in the jungles of the
sub-continent. My neighborhood in
Brooklyn was awash in the smells of rich marinara sauce, roasting coffee and
too much cologne like the streets of Naples. New York is a convenience
traveler’s fantasy because the whole world comes right to your doorstep.
I knew I
needed to stop. Who could keep a traveling lifestyle up forever? Eventually
everyone needs to hang up the spurs and put down some roots. I decided to end
the habit but, like most addicts, I promised myself one big score before the
end; a round the world trip. That was my ticket out…
Molly and I
took the train from Hanoi up to Sapa, Vietnam, right next to the Chinese
border. It was still dark when we arrived and a curtain of clouds rolled down
the steep mountains offering only momentary glimpses of the spectacular vistas
that lay beyond. We took a mini-bus up to the main town and quickly booked a
hotel room for a much needed nap. We awoke just after noon to a blinding sun
pouring through the huge window of our hotel room. The mist that had obscured our
view earlier retreated leaving a spectacular panorama of the valley below.
Jagged, green mountains rose thousands of feet into the air. On the lower
slopes every inch of arable land was transformed into an endless staircase of
terraced rice paddies.
H'mong girls walking in town |
Northern
Vietnam is where most of the ethnic minorities make their home. The hills around Sapa are home to the H’mong,
Red Dzao, White Dzao, Tay and many other tribes. The different tribes are
easily identifiable by their clothes. The Red Dzao wear bright red turbans or
scarves on their heads. The H’mong on the other hand are easy to spot by their
embroidered indigo dresses over velvet legwarmers. Although the majority of
these tribes are subsistence farmers, a large number of the young women have
learned that foreign visitors have deep pockets and a low threshold for saying
no. A tourist walking down the steep main street in Sapa often looks like a
sweaty goose with eight or nine brightly colored, ethnic goslings following
behind. Each of the honking, squawking flock holds up bracelets, necklaces and
embroidery in a reverse force feeding of indigenous trinkets down their new
mother’s throat. Tenacity is in their blood. Molly and I were followed through
town for about two miles by a gaggle of four girls. They proceeded to stand
outside in the rain for an hour and a half while we ate lunch before
renewing the chase. We eventually broke down and bought some bracelets and an
embroidered baby carrier for our friend. It’s hard to say “no” for three hours
straight. Those girls are good.
Red Dzao girls |
Molly and the H'mong |
Deep in negotiations. Can you spot the Red Dzao? |
Early the
next morning we rented a motor bike and drove off into the hills around town.
The mountain road twisted and turned like an epileptic snake slithering its way
to the summit. Hairpin curves and precipitous drop offs forced me to
concentrate heavily on the road. I did, however, manage to look up every once in
a while to catch a glimpse of silvery waterfalls plunging down the hills or a
few H’mong children leading a herd of water buffalo to graze on the
slopes.
Those dogs are not heading to a pet store... |
Ridin' in style |
We wound our way over gravel roads up to the
Red Dzao village of Ta Phin, northeast of Sapa. On the way we came across the
ruins of an old monastery. Built during the colonial period in the early twentieth century
the church was abandoned when the French pulled out of Vietnam. It was
beautiful strolling among the crumbled archways and overgrown orchards. Something
about ruined churches makes them feel more sacred to me. The strength embodied
by the huge stone walls and buttresses is balanced by delicate flowers that
grow out from cracks in the mortar. The ruins almost feel as if they grew up
out of the earth, as natural and in tune with their surroundings as the trees
that nestle in the spaces between their stones. Ghost of the past walk the
disintegrating corridors reminding all who enter that the builders of this
place have long ago gone to meet their own maker.
We stopped
for a bowl of Pho at an idyllic little restaurant right next to a small stream
overlooking some rice paddies. We sat at the one table in the place and made
goo-goo eyes at the owner’s toddler who wouldn’t stop staring at us from under
his mother’s skirt. (Y’all act like you’ve never seen a white person before)
After lunch we walked through the village and were immediately surrounded by a
sea of red scarves. We haggled for twenty minutes and eventually left with a
woven glasses case and a floor mat. I’m telling you those girls are good.
This girl has a bracelet for YOU! |
We left
Sapa in high fashion. Our friends Zak and Ali, who we met on our cruise in
Halong bay, had booked a sleeper compartment on a train back to Hanoi. They had
two extra beds and invited us to come along. We jumped at the chance to ride in
style. Now, it might have been the
altitude or, more likely, the two bottles of Vietnamese vodka that we all
split, but it was one of the best train rides of my life… and I don’t remember
going to sleep.
(From left to right) Zak, Ali, Molly's chair, Mark, Katie and El |
Back in
Hanoi I felt that old monkey stirring again. He knew we were going home soon
and he wasn’t about to go quietly. After a few hours of drinking bia hoi I
finally I decided to screw my courage to the sticking place and go for the king
of all traveler’s experiences… eating a beating snake heart. Hanoi’s snake
district is just across the river from the old city so Molly and I jumped in a
taxi along with Zak and Ali and two other friends El and Katie. We soon found
ourselves face to face with a pit full of hissing cobras, something that El was
none too keen on.
We picked
out a nice, juicy three pound cobra that was about 5 feet long. After haggling
a little we agreed on the price and the meal began. First the blood is drained
into a glass and the heart is removed to be eaten later. A snake heart will
beat for up to thirty minutes after it is removed from the body. They then
remove the skin. All through this ordeal the snake is wiggling and moving
around. I prefer to think that the snake is dead and, like the heart, the
snake’s muscles are just convulsing with residual electrical impulses,
otherwise this would this would be incredibly cruel.
Beating snake heart with shot glasses |
One thing
that is nice about the snake restaurants is that they use every piece of the
snake. That night we had snakeskin cracklings, stir fried snake meat with
lemongrass, deep fried spine (yes, spine), snake offal with garlic and peppers
as well as shots of snake bile, blood and heart. Here’s a tip. Drink the snake
blood early in the meal, otherwise it starts to congeal. Drinking the heart in
a shot of vodka was something I will never forget. The heart continues beating
for a few minutes after you swallow it and you can feel it in your throat. It
is said to impart strength and virility to whomever eats it. I’m just happy I
didn’t puke.
Snake meat stirfried with lemmongrass |
Deep fried spine and skin |
As the end
of our trip drew nigh, Molly and I found ourselves with a lot of ground to
cover to get back to Saigon for our return flight. We decided we might as well
bite the bullet. We booked a twenty-eight hour
train ride from Hanoi to Nha Trang, bought some Ritz crackers, Hanoi Beer and
some Coke Zero for sustenance, and prepared for our nightmare.
Because we
had very little money we opted to buy a seat in the economy class car. All the
other tourists arrived and went into their air-conditioned cabins with beds and
fresh linens. Molly and were the only to foreigners in the budget car. It was
literally crawling with roaches. Children and adults curled up on straw mats on
the floor trying to sleep away the endless journey. Every few hours conductors
pushed a cart full of soda, beer and hột
vịt lộn, partially formed duck fetuses boiled in their shell. YUMMY! Glad we brought those Ritz. The train ride
was so long I actually started to feel like I was in the Jean Paul Sartre play
“No Exit”. Hell is other people… who won’t shut up during a long train ride.
We finally
arrived in Nha Trang and hopped in a taxi to our hotel by the beach. The next
few days were spent in blissful ignorance, turning a blind eye to the impending
wave of reality that would shortly come crashing down around us. We rented
beach chairs at the Louisiane Brewery for sunbathing, schooled a bunch of
Russians in eight-ball, and ate some of the greatest Vietnamese BBQ in the
world at Lac Cahn Restaurant. Every table has a smoking ceramic BBQ and waiters
bring out huge plates of beef, pork, squid, shrimp and vegetables to be seared
to your liking. For people who like to play with their food, this place is like
heaven.
A few days
later we caught our last night bus of the trip back to Saigon. Aside from an
epic shopping spree at the Ben Thanh market, the only thing left to do was the
Cu Chi tunnels. The tunnels were originally build to fight the French but were
greatly expanded in the war against the Americans. Cu Chi has hard red, clay
soil that is perfect for digging tunnels. During the war the VC dug hundreds of
miles of these tunnels to help supply troops, aid in surprise attacks, and
serve as living quarters for thousands of soldiers. Molly and I crawled through the steamy, bat infested, 40 inch high tunnels and looked at the vicious home-made traps that were used against american troops. All I can say is that I have the utmost respect for anyone who made it out of there alive.
And that
was that. Suddenly the trip was all over. Molly and I boarded a plane bound for
Los Angeles the next morning. I watched the Far East retreat in my window and
prepared to return to a normal life… whatever that means. When we landed in
California both Molly and I got incredibly ill. It seems that like any other
addiction, travel withdrawal is a bitch. We spent the next week in bed, too
weak to move, both running temperatures of 103⁰. I’ll spare you the grim
details but suffice it to say that things got really ugly.
Going cold
turkey is one of the hardest things I had to do but, thank God, it’s over. This
past year traveling was the greatest experience of my life but to do it I had
to leave almost everything I love behind. I would take up at the drop of a hat
and jaunt off to sunny Thailand or disappear into the Chilean Andes for months
at a time. But, that’s all gonna change-I’m going to change. Like others before me, now I'm cleaning
up and I'm moving on, going straight and choosing life. It’s all about the
straight and narrow path now; houses in suburbia and early morning jogging in
the neighborhood. I can’t wait to start tomorrow…
although,
I have
always heard that Dublin is nice this time of year.